N0.1 (Quality: RAW vs JPEG)

Astrophotography tips and Camera Settings - As you are probably aware, most DSLR cameras include the file format in which images are stored and are set to JPEG as the default. Most 'high-end' consumer digital cameras also allow images to be saved in a proprietary 'RAW' file format, which allows for higher-quality images (especially during the post-processing stage). A RAW file format preserves all of the original data as it is read from the camera's sensor. This is without a doubt the best file format for shooting Astrophotography in, making it the best Astrophotography camera setting to use. The RAW file format saves data with a high bit depth (typically 12 bits) that is output as linear data from an analog-digital converter.

This is critical for astronomical imagery! High-bit linear data provides the most flexibility in terms of how the data is calibrated, manipulated, and enhanced to produce the best images possible. That being said, if you don't want to go through the trouble of calibrating your camera and just want a quick image to show, you can shoot JPEG formatted files on your camera. The camera will convert the linear file into a recognizable photograph, which you can then edit in an image editing program to adjust the contrast and color balance. In fact, some new low-noise DSLR cameras are so good that you can shoot a single 3-minute exposure in JPEG format with brighter objects like M17 and still get a good picture! Isn't that amazing? This may be the approach you want to take if you are a beginner. In fact, we would recommend it! To get started, shoot in JPEGs and learn your way around the scope, camera, and the subject of Astrophotography in general. Then, as you progress to the next level, you'll want to begin shooting in RAW file format.

Camera Settings for Astrophotography

Most cameras also offer a selection of image resolutions. These options can be referred to by various names, but the most common are 'Large,' 'Medium,' and 'Small,' or 'High,' 'Medium,' and 'Low.' This option allows you to choose between the highest, true optical resolution from the sensor and a lower resolution created by in-camera interpolation. Always select the highest resolution and quality setting. The Canon 20Da, for example, has true optical resolution of 3504 x 2336 pixels in addition to lower resolution options of 2544 x 1696 and 1728 x 1152. However, the in-camera settings for contrast, saturation, color balance, and sharpening are not applied to RAW files. The RAW file retains all of the original data as it is read from the camera's sensor. Some cameras provide in-camera compression for RAW file formats that differs from the compression used for JPEG files. This type of RAW compression does not waste data. Astrophotography Camera Settings (JPEG) - DSLR cameras have different JPEG compression settings, which are sometimes referred to as 'quality' settings. Higher quality implies less compression, resulting in a larger file size. For normal daytime snapshot photography, some people shoot with a lower quality setting that compresses the JPEG files together, which, of course, takes up less space on your device. The disadvantage of using the JPEG file format is that you will lose information because that is how it achieves such high compression ratios, by throwing information away.

Astrophotography Camera Preferences

Astrophotography Camera Preferences (RAW & JPEG) - You should try this if you have a camera that allows you to shoot in both RAW and JPEG formats at the same time. This is possible with the Canon pro cameras. That way, the camera applies whatever in-camera contrast and sharpening settings you have to the JEPG only, giving you a quick preview of what the image looks like without having to process the RAW file. So, that concludes Part 1 of this article, but if you want to hear more from us, you can always visit our previous blog posts by clicking here.

common misconceptions

It's a common misconception that beautiful photos of the night sky are the result of sleepless nights and large sums of money. While fancy equipment and plenty of free time may improve your chances of capturing amazing shots of the heavens, much can be accomplished with the equipment most photographers already own and a few minutes of experimentation—even if they've never considered astrophotography before.

The night sky is a one-of-a-kind low-light scene. All of the usual rules apply, but each must be strictly followed. Here are ten pointers to help you capture dramatic images of the night sky:

Astrophotography tips

Here are some more astrophotography tips!…

1) Use a remote shutter or timer to eliminate vibration when taking the shot.

2) Using live-view and 10x zoom, manually focus on a bright star (or the moon). Attempt to make the star as pointy as possible. When photographing the moon, concentrate on the edge, also known as the limb.

3) Because your lens will not be able to autofocus on stars, set it to manual.

4) The stars are far-off suns. Use daylight white balance to accurately capture their color. The camera can see hues of pale blue, orange, and occasionally deep red that your eyes cannot.

5) Capture your images in RAW plus a large JPEG. You can use JPEG to preview and process RAW images. Because stars are point-like, high-contrast subjects, optical aberrations in lenses are a major contributor to spoiled images. When editing in RAW, many software packages can compensate in some ways.

6) If you use long exposures, the sensor in your camera will become warmer than the ambient temperature. Allow it to cool down between exposures. Sensors that are cooler generate less noise. Taking multiple exposures is the best way to control noise in astronomical images, but before diving into advanced techniques, give your noise reduction plugin a chance. Even in a single exposure, modern software is very good at reducing noise while preserving stars.

7) Use a wide-angle, fast lens to reduce star trailing. The sharpest images are produced by using short, low-magnification exposures. A fast lens will produce more stars and a brighter image, while a wide shot will be more forgiving of drift—a star is less likely to spill over from one pixel to the next over the course of a shot. Many of my images are shot at 11mm with a Tokina 11-16mm F/2.8 lens.

8) Experiment with different exposure times. In just 5-10 seconds, a bright Northern Lights display can produce a stunning image. Longer exposures—30-60 seconds—are typically required for the Milky Way. Meteor showers are sporadic in nature, so why not leave your shutter open for a few minutes on bulb and see what happens?

9) If your lens is F/4 or faster, I've found that photos like the ones above can be captured with ISO 400-800. Find a happy medium that minimizes noise.

10) A tripod is required because exposure times will typically range from a few seconds to a couple of minutes. Because the sky is constantly rotating, even a tripod will not produce perfectly sharp stars unless the exposure is minimized. Only an equatorial tracking platform can provide total compensation. Star trails, of course, have a distinct appeal and can be achieved with long exposures.